Viking cooking
Clicking with no flame, or clicking that outlasts the flame. Each has a clean fix.
That click is the spark igniter doing its job with nothing to show for it. The usual reasons are water in the igniter circuit after a cleaning or a boil over, a cracked or dirty spark igniter, or a spark module on its way out.
It matters because these faults grow. A cracked igniter arcs where it should not, and since one module feeds several burners, a single wet switch can set the whole top clicking at once. We trace the circuit, fit factory parts, and reset every spark gap to spec before we leave.
Cleaning water or a boil over shorts the spark path. Some of it dries out. Plenty of it corrodes instead.
Grease film and hairline cracks steal the spark before it ever reaches the gas.
Weak sparks, or sparks that keep firing after the flame is lit. That second one is the classic signature.
One notch of misalignment ruins the spark gap. The quickest fix on this page.
The noise itself is harmless. Repeated failed lights do release unburned gas, so if you ever smell it, shut the cooktop down and ventilate the room before calling.
Give it a day. Light a burner that works, run it low, and let the heat dry things out. Clicking that survives 24 hours means a component got compromised.
All of them. Open burner and sealed burner ranges, rangetops, and gas cooktops across every generation. Certification renews yearly on the current platforms.
One call and it is off your list. Open daily, 7am to 7pm.
Same day windows go to whoever calls first. The $89 diagnostic folds into your repair, so finding out costs nothing extra.